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Chuuk (a.k.a. Truk) was the most remote place we'd
ever been - and during this trip, the farther East
we traveled, the more remote it got. Having no idea
what to do, and being a little scared by the chaos
at the airport, we followed a group of confident looking
divers. Turns out they had been there before, were
from Augusta Georgia, and were headed to the same
place we were. The drive to the hotel was an adventure
- the one "road" on the island was full
of pot holes and our transportation had no shock absorbers.
We were very pleased when we passed through the barbed-wire
fence of the Blue Lagoon Beach Resort (a.k.a. Truk
Continental Hotel). Supposedly there is "strife
among the locals" in Chuuk, but since we never
left the resort, we only know what we saw on the way
to and from the airport - no one working and guys
just loitering about. Since there was no reason to
leave the resort, this wasn't a problem. Our room
had a lovely ocean view, tv and purified water, and
a family of kittens living on the balcony. Every night
we had leftover sashimi wrapped up for them. The food
was surprisingly good - again, we weren't expecting
five-star dining, but for such a remote locale they
did well with what they had. The diving was amazing
- Truk Lagoon (the Graveyard of the Pacific from Operation
Hailstorm in World War II) is chock full of wrecks
and it we had the place to ourselves. The group from
GA went off on their own, which left Andy and I with
our own divemaster and boat for the entire time -
perfect! Our divemaster would show us a schematic
of the wreck, then take us inside for the guided tour
(bones, dishware, tanks, weaponry, skulls). Very very
cool and unlike no other place on earth.
To get from Chuuk to Yap,
we had to overnight in Guam. The flight schedule is
pretty messed up - the flights only operate a few
days a week, and they leave Guam at 5am (which means
getting to the airport at 3am). With this in mind,
we got a room at the Mai'Ana Hotel, which is basically
in the Guam airport, and ordered delivery from Pizza
Hut ($35 pizza!). When we arrived in Yap, we were
greeted at the airport by a representative from the
Pathways Resort. She gave us an "orientation"
on the way to the hotel, but it was 6am so we just
wanted to get to the hotel and nap. She did make sure
to note that women cover their legs above the knees
and frequently go topless (gotta love a society that
hides the thighs and bears the boobs).
The Pathways is a charming
hotel - thatched bungalows perched on a hillside.
There are only two other hotel options in Yap, and
if we had it to do all over again, we'd probably stay
at the Pathways. We dove the Mil Channel everyday
- we were there to see mantas so there was no reason
to go to other dive sites. The dives were unusual
- you go to the bottom (about 50-60 feet), hide behind
coral heads, and wait quietly. The mantas come out
of nowhere and they are huge! Like 15" wing spans!
Several times there were a few mantas doing that motion
where they open their mouths and feed by swimming
in circles - VERY cool. We quickly formed a group
with other travelers, and before you knew it there
were 14 of us everywhere we went. We got along best
with a couple from Australia - they were staying on
the other side of the island and, since they had a
car, took us on a tour (bad bad driver though, had
a tire blow-out and everything). There was another
couple from New Jersey (Continental employees), and
a very strange couple from The Hague (when you meet
new people, would you say "my name rhymes with
'toilet" and my cat uses the toilet"?!?).
There was also an awesome couple from Hawaii - they
retired, bought round-the-world tickets, and have
been traveling ever since. We all went out for New
Year's Eve - had a fancy dinner at Trader's Ridge,
then went to the local party (where they counted from
one to one-hundred, then sang "Feliz Navidad"
at midnight. O...K...
The flight from Yap to Palau
was easy. We asked the hotel to reconfirm our flight.
They looked at us quizzically and said, "when
you hear the plane, you should go to the airport".
The flight in to Palau was unbelievable - fantastic
view of the mushroom-shaped limestone islands. We
stayed at the Carolines Resort - thatched bungalows
on a hillside, with beach and pool privileges at the
Palau Pacific Resort. We dove everyday at the Blue
Wall - unusual dive where you hook in to the coral
using a reef hook (I know, sounds damaging, but it
is the preferred method and required here). You just
float there, flying in the very strong current and
watch the creatures fly by. Have never seen such amazing
sea life! You name it, we saw it - like the Living
Seas IMAX movie. For lunch, they'd take us to some
deserted island for a picnic. Palau was unreal and
we would definitely go back if we get the opportunity
(it's a hoof to get out there!). Our flight home left
at 2:30am, which meant leaving the hotel at midnight.
We flew through Guam, and then to Hawaii - like 8-10
hours or something - blech!
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